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War & Pees

May 25, 2014 Julia Inserro
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Potty training.  It’s not something I looked forward to.  Although as my daughter approached her second birthday, I did reach out to friends who’d been through it to see what recommendations they had.  Several of them recommended the online “3 day potty training method”, so eventually I logged on and bought the e-book. I read through it, and took special note of the “supplies” section, buying almost everything that she listed; which included the world’s tiniest underpants, an Elmo potty “with real flushing sounds!,” several books with “potty” and “poop” in the title, and even one called “Big Girl Panties,” that my husband refused to read more than once.  But that’s where things stopped.

To actually commit to starting potty training I needed a push.  Two months after my daughter’s second birthday, with the birth of our second child coming in just two more months’ time, and a precious three-day weekend looming, my husband and I agreed that this was the push we needed.  And despite hating to give up a three-day weekend, I figured that I’d rather not have two kids in diapers, if I could avoid it.  At least that was my thinking at the time.  So, prep we did.

Well, “prep” may be a loose term.  The morning of day 1, Daddy was sitting in the living room reading the book (finally); but in fairness he was the calm patient one throughout the entire three-day ordeal.  And I use “ordeal” in all its definitions and synonyms, to include: “a very unpleasant and prolonged experience,” as well as “painful experience, trial, tribulation, test, nightmare, trauma, baptism of fire, hell, hell on earth, misery, trouble, difficulty, torture, torment, and agony.”  Yup, pretty much summed it up for me.

What I had not fully comprehended, and maybe it was after the “supplies” section of the book where I got sidetracked, was the true commitment to this project.  It’s not just about piles of daily laundry or giving up three days of your life – although that is highly stressed throughout the book, and rightly so.  Spending every 10-15 minutes of the wakeful day saying, “Tell Mommy or Daddy if you have to go potty,” leaves little time for phone calls, internet shopping, or even cooking.

But, once those three days of seclusion are done, then the real “fun” begins.  And I found that the seclusion just dragged on and on for me.  For the next seven days I remained secluded within the house, asking every 10-15 minutes, “Tell Mommy if you have to go potty.”  Dealing with lots of accidents, some successes, and trying to keep my happy face on regardless of what it was.  It was exhausting and I felt like I was swimming in the sea of “ordeal” synonyms.

I finally reached out to other moms to ask, “When can I ever leave the house again?”  And quite simply they said, “Leave now!”  Essentially accidents happen, so travel prepared, but otherwise resume your normal life.  I did so with great trepidation, for some reason, but I did it none-the-less.  And you know what?  We all survived!  The earth didn’t swallow us whole, no one pointed and laughed at the mommy carrying her travel potty, in fact, nothing happened at all; including no accidents!

I will say that on day 8, we upped the ante (as all my girlfriends suggested and the book recommended, but we hadn’t yet employed) and added the sweet incentive of chocolate chips (known as “bips” in our house) for successful potty trips.  And the effect was practically instantaneous.  From that day forward, we never had a “wakeful” accident again.  And four days later, she even used the travel potty during a play date.  I was as proud as a potty-training-mommy peacock, let me tell you!

I won’t share all of the gory details, but we've been at it now for about 25 days and suffice it to say that while we are far from perfect yet, we are seeing enough progress so as to not quit.  Nighttime accidents are still a factor, so after three weeks we decided to use “nighttime panties” (diapers) with hopes that eventually she’ll wake up dry and we can ditch them as well.

So, I can’t comment yet on whether this was a good idea or a bad idea, in regards to prepping for the new baby.  But like most life lessons, that will come after the fact.  But for now, we’re doing our best to resume a normal life, continue with our doling out “two bips!” and doing our family “happy hops” for successful potty trips, and doing our best to go a full 24-hours without discussing our daughter’s latest potty successes.  Oh, sorry, guess I’ll have to start that one tomorrow.

In Marriage and Motherhood Tags 3 day potty training method, potty training
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I Thought I Had Mono... and Other Stupidities

May 19, 2014 Julia Inserro
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Finding out you're pregnant, five years after medical experts around the world told you it was almost an impossibility, plus being solidly in your 40s, results in a little more than just morning sickness and exhaustion; try basic incomprehension. We had been in Jordan for about two months and had just spent the weekend traipsing all about Petra.  So, when I felt exhausted and slightly nauseous, I blamed it on the over-exertion.  Of course, when I still felt that way five, even seven, days later, I did think it was a little odd.  And naturally, my brain went exhaustion + nausea = mono.  Never once did it occur to me that pregnancy might be the cause.

Luckily, my husband is a smart smart man.  Of course, when he said, “Maybe you’re pregnant,” I snorted and rolled my eyes derisively.

Two days later he came home with a pregnancy test he’d bought at the pharmacy.  I smiled and tucked it in a drawer.  But a few days later, I thought I’d humor him and took the test.  Positive.  For all the attempts we’d made, over all those years, to get pregnant (all that time ago), I never had a positive test.  So, what did I do?  I went out and bought another test, naturally assuming that it was a knock-off Chinese-made Jordanian-imported pregnancy test.  Well, the next “knock-off Chinese-made Jordanian-imported pregnancy test” said I was still pregnant.  Hmm.

“We’re going to the doctor,” my husband said.  Smart smart man.

At the doctor, I said quite simply, “I think we’re pregnant.”

“Okay, when was your last period?”

This stumped me.  When you’re trying to get pregnant, these details are on the tip of your tongue.  You know everything about your body.  But when you’re not trying to get pregnant, it’s really not a fun fact to share and tell (and recall), so I guesstimated.

“Well, then you’re about 8 weeks along; due in late June,” he said.

Two weeks later, still mired in denial, we visited a local obstetrician and with sonogram in hand, she confirmed it.  We were 10-weeks pregnant.  I burst into happy, terrified, overwhelmed tears.

We didn’t tell anyone for weeks.  I just needed to wrap my head around it.  Ironically enough, we had just started the “should we adopt again?” conversation, now that our daughter was approaching her second birthday.  Suddenly that conversation was put on hold.

So, as any good “bookworm” would do, I dove into the standard, “So You Think You’re Pregnant” books and started reading.  Month two, first trimester: in addition to learning that my baby was now the size of a raspberry, I also got to look forward to continued nausea, gas, headaches, increased saliva, dizziness, tender breasts, mood swings and frequent urination.  Lovely.

I think it was around month four that I stopped reading ahead.  I told a friend it was because I didn’t want to find out how it ended, but in reality it was just far too depressing.  I had a month of flatulence, bleeding gums, snoring, varicose veins, heartburn, bloating and something to do with discharge, to look forward to.  (I’m sorry, but when is “discharge” anything but unpleasant?)

I did share every excruciatingly gooey detail with my husband from my readings, however, figuring that if I was going to have to suffer through the symptoms, then he could suffer through hearing about them.  He turned various shades of mauve and ashy gray and this pretty much cinched the end of our “sharing” time in regards to pregnancy-look-ahead reading.

Oh, brain, how I miss thee

The term “baby brain” is typically used to describe the loopy dippiness than happens to pregnant women.  It makes you lose your keys, forget your wallet, miss appointments, and in general bring out the “dumb blonde” deep within all of us.  I’m convinced this is because the baby is sucking us dry of every vital organ and system, leaving us a barely functioning autonomic nervous system, but there may be a more scientific reason behind it.

My husband took on the task of making sure my phone was charged, always asked me if I locked the house, and in general kept his expectations of my mental capacity low.  I can’t tell you how many times I parked the car and left it in drive.  Took me ages to figure out why it wouldn’t start again.  Once it rolled gently into the car in front of me.  And another time (which my husband doesn’t know about), I came out of a friend’s house to find my car had rolled half-way down the block and was sitting in the middle of the road.  I was just grateful it wasn’t a steeper hill and no one got hurt.

But as the pregnancy wore on, things just got worse.  I started to begin all sentences with, “Have I said this already?”  Then, around my 34th week, I said to my husband one night, “Did we discuss plans for this weekend?”

“Yeah, we talked about meeting up with the Davis’ around 5pm.”

“Really?  I have no recollection of that.”  Silence from both of us.  Then I added, “I do hope my brain will come back at some point.”

“Just please don’t turn into that fish in ‘Finding Nemo’ and forget who I am every day,” my husband asked.

I had to laugh.  But inside I said a quick prayer.

Exhaustion, insomnia and, well… poo

There were a few pregnancy symptoms that I became rather preoccupied with (i.e., obsessed).  First was the overwhelming exhaustion (hence my initial mono self-diagnosis).  And regardless of all the promises from books, blogs and websites, it never diminished for me.  I had days that were better than others, but if I didn’t get a nap when my two-year-old did, then the evening could be interminable.

Then, combine exhaustion with weekly bouts of insomnia.  Now that’s just cruel.  I’d fall dead asleep at 9pm, only to wake at one or two and have to move to the couch to watch television until I fell asleep again. However, a few hours on a lumpy couch do not a restful sleep make and I would inevitably have a zombie day following.

Then, while grappling with the exhaustion-insomnia paradigm, I discovered yet one more fascination.  Never before in my life had I been so preoccupied with flatulence, gaseousness, and constipation – probably because never before had I been so alarmingly affected.  It was like I’d become a 7-year-old boy.  I could talk about it for days.  And yet despite his ability to chortle at others’ fart jokes, I think my husband grew tired of me bringing up the topic.  Such a double standard.

Cravings?

Most people really want to know what wacky things you’re craving.  Pickles and ice cream?  Peanut butter and tofu?  Ear wax and strawberries?  Unfortunately my cravings, such as they were, strayed to the more mundane, like ice in all my drinks (which was a new thing for me).  Did I crave Haagen-Daz’s Chocolate Peanut Butter?  Hell, yes!  But the same could be said for me pre-pregnancy, so I don’t think it counts.  And as I see it, thanks to my education through books, movies and TV, a true “craving” is where you wake up your husband and send him out at 2am because you’ll just die without Fig Newtons and Magic Shell.  I never did that.

I did learn that I loved jelly beans, even over chocolate.  Weird.  But most of my food issues were more of the “aversion” type than the craving type.  There was a lot that turned my stomach, including hummus, hard-boiled eggs, steamed spinach.  And not just the taste, in fact I rarely got to taste it.  It was a texture thing, and frankly I don’t even want to talk about it.

Then around week 28, I came down with something like hypoglycemia, which temporarily threw me into a bit of a tailspin.  It had no affect on the baby, but for the next few weeks I started keeping a “Food & Mood” journal to see what I could eat and on a scale of one to ten, how narcoleptic it was.  Fruit and fruit juice were fine, as long as I didn’t just eat them alone, had to combine with protein or fiber.  But white table sugar and white flour threw me into a day-long coma, where even my husband commented that I was even more of a space cadet than usual.  I love you, too, dear.

Advice, take it or… naw, just take it

Once I stopped reading ahead, I turned to the best source of all advice:  the girlfriend.  I had a nice sampling of moms I readily reached out to with all my weird and crazy questions and got a fabulous outpouring of advice.  Most of which I took, some I didn’t (but later wished I had).

And in all honesty, the #1 most offered advice was adamantly, “Take the laxatives after birth!!”  I didn’t even think to ask the question, but folks were quick to offer it up.  Duly noted, thanks ladies.

At week 14, I started to feel some leg aches and could have sworn that I could hear the creaking of my ligaments and muscles stretching and shifting.  I was quickly told to increase my water and keep my legs elevated as much as possible, especially in the evenings.  Worked wonders.

Then in week 18, the sleep issues began and no matter how many pillows I stuffed and wedged, I couldn’t get comfortable.  I was told to get a body pillow and I have to say, I splurged on the Leachco Snoogle Total Body Pillow and never spent a night without it after that.  It even went on vacation with us.  I call him Fred.

Around about week 20, I started to ask girlfriends about maternity wear.  What should I buy, how much, etc.  They all suggested a few signature pieces to get me through the pregnancy, but admitted I didn’t need a whole new wardrobe.  For whatever reason, I disregarded their advice entirely and bought some non-maternity clothes in a size or two bigger.  Then when I tried them on, the shoulders were so big I was constantly reenacting Jennifer Beals in “Flashdance”, minus the leg warmers. (Dated reference, I know, but forgive me, I’m in my 40s.)  When I mentioned this to my girlfriends and asked if I should just keep them and grow into them, they said, “What, you’re going to gain weight in your shoulders?!”  Honestly, I had no idea.  But in hindsight I should have listened to them all from the start.

I’m also trying to follow my own advice; the advice I give to pre-parents.  Get out and do stuff, go to the movies, go to dinner, do whitewater rafting, take pottery lessons, read books without pictures, have regular lunches with your girlfriends, stay up late, take a fabulous pre-kid trip with your spouse, and basically don’t put things off.

Two years ago, I was one of the doe-eyed innocents, hearing all these proclamations from other girlfriends and just smiling at them thinking they were making such a big deal out of things.  They weren’t.  They knew exactly what they were talking about and for the most part, luckily, we took their advice.

Now on round two things are a little different, adding a toddler to the mix makes romantic dinners and girlfriend lunches and movie dates slightly more difficult, but not impossible.  So we’re doing our best to take advantage of the “calm” (if you can call a two-year-old in potty training “calm”) before the “storm”.

Where’s my $*%&! glow?

In all my wanderings I can honestly say that I’ve come across four women who said they loved being pregnant.  Four.  Everyone else said that while it was worth it, they definitely weren’t floating on gossamer wings for nine months.

Now, as pregnancies go, I know that I’ve had a relatively easy one so far.  I’ve known younger and fitter women than me, who were put on bed rest for months; women who suffered such insomnia they had to be hospitalized; women who went into spontaneous labor eight weeks early and had to leave their child in the NICU for weeks.  So, my minor complaints about exhaustion and dirigible-like-bloating are really just whininess.

However, I do have one final whine to throw out there.  Maybe it’s because I got most of my pregnancy ideas from the entertainment industry; but in addition to the expectation of ice-cream-cravings, I fully expected to also get “the glow.”  You know, that “glow” that everyone talks about – where pregnancy brings out the inner goddess and men stop and stare, unable to control their desires to pamper me and help me with my groceries.  I even went back to the “So You Think You’re Pregnant” books just to see if they covered “how to get your glow on” and maybe find something I’d forgotten to do, but not one reference to glowing could be found; the index went right from gestational diabetes to glucose to gonorrhea.  I feel a bit gypped.  I never glowed remotely.  I waddled, I swayed, I groaned and moaned, I huffed and puffed; but not a %$&! shimmer to be found.

One month and counting

So, we basically have one month to go until we get to meet this little person who has so affected my daily life for the last 35 weeks.  I know that the exhaustion of dealing with a newborn will be just as debilitating, but I’m looking forward to putting shoes on without grunting, walking without resting my hand on my belly (though it does help to assure people that I’m pregnant and not just oddly fat, which relieves me a little), and getting back to my old regular (pun intended) intestinal tract.  Beyond that, we’ll just have to wait and see.  But at least I have my trusty girlfriend posse and Fred, oh and my smart smart husband, to keep me smiling.  Now off to plan that movie date!

In Marriage and Motherhood Tags pregnancy, pregnancy after 40, pregnancy symptoms, pregnant after 40
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Expat Etiquette Lessons

May 14, 2014 Julia Inserro
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As an expat in a foreign country, I feel it is my duty to do what I can to acclimate to the local culture.  Living throughout the Middle East for the last six years, I’ve made attempts to learn, and sometimes even speak, baby Arabic.  I’ve adopted the more modest style of dress (foregoing the short-shorts and belly-shirts I so loved when I was seven).  I’ve readily tried all the local vegetarian offerings (though I only had to try molokhia once, just not being a fan of slimy spinach-like glop).  But no matter how hard I try, there are just some local “etiquettes” that I just can’t master; and frankly, I hope I never do.

Driving Etiquette

Living in Cairo exposed me to a whole new world of insanity, and most of it was traffic-related.  It took me a few months to stop gasping at the physics-bending moves of the drivers that in any other world would have resulted in a mass of metal and muscle, but in Cairo was just how they turn left.  I came to accept that “one way” streets were merely a suggestion; traffic lights were often just for show; families of five could quite easily fit on a motor scooter, even with a basket of laundry and a newborn in tow; donkey carts carrying propane should be avoided; bread bikes are fascinating but should also be avoided; plate glass windows can easily be carried under your arm as your drive your motorcycle; and door knobs that work on taxis are overrated.

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Then we moved to Kuwait.  No longer did I have the fun of trying to up the wacky-ante on the watermelon truck with grandma perched on top, or the shed-sized blocks of limestone that had casually rolled off the flatbed and were sitting in the middle of the highway.  Now I was dumped into the Gulf’s version of the Indy 500, but with Bentleys, Lamborghinis, and Maseratis, and a population of trust-fund kids who had spare cars in their garages at home and not a care if they crumpled their “Thursday” car.  Speed and an overwhelming fatalistic belief system often meant for a harrowing ride to the mall.  To drive without cursing in Kuwait was a skill I never mastered; thank goodness my daughter was pre-verbal.

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When we moved to Jordan, I was curious what the driving etiquette would be.  Well, like most things in Jordan, it lies somewhere in the middle between Cairo and Kuwait.  They don’t have the speed or extreme opulence of Kuwait (thank goodness), but they also don’t have the population or poverty of Cairo or the need to keep 40-year-old Peugeot’s running with mere duct tape and will.

However, for all their differences, there are some similarities between the three countries and for this I am truly frustrated:  one-ways remain mere suggestions; the foreigner is always in the wrong; lines on the road are either imaginary or just to add a touch of color; and most annoying of all, the prevailing thought that if I need to turn left, right or center, I will, regardless of your proximity to me or how many people I affect, because life is all about ME.

Telephone Etiquette

On the scale of things, this is a minor annoyance; or rather, it should be.  But for whatever reason, it drives me bonkers.  As children we are taught how to answer the phone.  The simple give and take, ask and answer, listen and respond.  In the Middle East, it’s taken to another level, and I just can’t get with the program.

Here’s an example of a typical phone call I'd get from a doctor’s office:

Ring, ring.  “Hello?”

“Hello!”

(pause)

“Hello,” I respond.

“Hello, ma’am.”

(pause)

“Hi,” getting mildly annoyed.

“How are you?”

“Fine,” annoyance growing.  (Now, over the years I’ve learned to just interject here and cut to the chase.)

“Who are you calling for?”

“This is Samira from Dr. Hiba’s office.”

(pause)

“Okay, hello.”

“Hello.”

(pause)

“Who are you calling for?”

“Ms. Julia?”

“Yes, that’s me.”

“Oh good.  How are you?”

“Fine, how can I help you?” (nudge, nudge, type-A tendencies emerging quickly)

“We wanted to remind of you of your appointment tomorrow at 2.”

“Okay, thank you.” (hang up quickly, or be stuck with five minutes of good-byes)

The issue is that if I was being a good expat and minding my etiquette manners, I’d play along and go through all the niceties that the local culture expects; lots of “how are yous” and “fines” and all that.  But I just can’t.  The fact that I can see on my caller ID that it’s Dr. Hiba’s office, and I know I have an appointment tomorrow, and the fact that in the US the call would take all of 12 seconds to remind me of the appointment, has trained me to expect just that.

And considering most calls I get I know exactly why they’re calling, I do tend to pull out my “obnoxious brusque American” card and just cut in with the substantive conversation, often throwing the caller a bit off balance with the whole pleasantry skipping.  However, on the odd occasion that I get a call from someone I don’t know, by the time I get to the point where either I figure out it’s a wrong number, or I find out it’s the yoga instructor telling me next week’s class is cancelled, I’m typically fit to be tied.  I realize it’s a bit of an overreaction and doesn’t make any sense, and for the most part living in the Middle East has sucked the type-A out of me, but in this one sense, I apparently just refuse to let go of efficiency and common sense, foregoing all decorum.  And for that, I apologize.  Now hurry up!

Business Etiquette

This one boggles my mind, and just always will.  It started quite clearly in Cairo, where the answer to any question you posed was almost always, “Yes.”  Even if it wasn’t.

“Can you get this spice rack finished by next week?”

“Yes!”  (It took 9 months)

“Can you deliver the camel saddles on Thursday?”

“Yes!”  (Showed up on a random Tuesday)

“Do you speak English?”

“Yes!”  (Technically he was correct, as “yes” is English, it was just the limit of his English.)

“Do you have the alabaster lamps we requested in stock?”

“Yes!”  (But despite multiple trips to their shop, they were never in stock.  This became such a joke that my husband eventually stopped driving me there (and he remains mad about it even five years later), so I just spent the next 12 months periodically stopping in until I finally found them randomly perched on a shelf for sale and grabbed them, taking an extra one for good measure.)

In Kuwait we didn’t have many dealings with shop proprietors (Ikea and Pottery Barn employees don’t seem to have this issue) or taxi drivers or anyone that could really offer something and not deliver – other than the occasional food delivery who would just never show up and when you called an hour later they would say, “Oh, we couldn’t find your house.”  (With the added implication, “And we were too lazy to call you and ask for directions or tell you to go ahead and eat soup tonight.”)

However, in Jordan, there have been two glaring examples since we’ve arrived.  Over a two-plus-month period, I have attempted to have two comforters cleaned by a local dry cleaner.  My first foray took multiple attempts to get them to come pick up the comforter, which was a service they offered.  They just apparently offered it infrequently.  But eventually they did indeed pick it up and I was told it would be ready in two days.  I gave them two weeks and followed up with countless phone calls and text messages, and finally it was delivered home all cleaned and pressed.

Regardless of the two day/two week time discrepancy, I figured I’d use them again and called to have another comforter picked up.   Again, a few weeks of following up and they eventually came by to get it.  And again, I was told “two days.”  I gave them five and instead of dealing with the whole string of phone calls and text messages, I figured I just swing by and just pick it up myself this time.

I should have known something was suspicious when I had to wait so long for them to retrieve it.  But they brought it out all sealed in a big plastic bag, looking so nice and clean.  The first issue arose when I went to pay.  Suddenly the price was double.  I pointed this out and essentially the guy at the counter told me, “Please pay.  He’s so mean.”  Are you saying you’ll be punished if I don’t pay double??  I seriously doubted this was a mob-run dry cleaners, and after several minutes of haggling, I paid half of the difference and stomped off.

Two days later, I unwrapped the comforter only to discover that it was still damp and it had new tea-colored stains on it, as if it had been dragged through dirty water on the floor.  I called them immediately and insisted they send someone to the house to retrieve it – I felt it was the least they could do.  Eventually, and I mean a few weeks later, they did send someone.  That was six weeks ago.  I’m still waiting for it to be cleaned and returned.  I’m suddenly finding myself missing the litigious nature of the American business model. (sigh)

Our second “business etiquette” lessons have to do with gardeners, or rather the local Egyptian Gardener Mafia.  When we arrived in Amman and got to our house, we were thrilled to see we had a lovely walled-in front garden, replete with trees, privacy, rose bushes, a table and chairs and lots of dirt to play in.  It was perfect and in our jet-lagged state it never occurred to us to wonder about maintenance, or the fact that there wasn’t a green thumb among us.  However, no fear, as two days later my husband said one morning, “There’s a guy climbing over our wall.  He’s watering the grass.

Insert our first Egyptian gardener, Omar.  My husband went out to introduce himself and learned that Omar had been the gardener here for the last 10 years.  In his jetlag stupor, he also agreed to hire him to come twice a week to take care of the garden. Initially all seemed good, until we started to notice that the “two times a week” was slipping to once a week, or twice a week for seven minutes at a time.  After several months of this, we graciously declined his services (such as they were) and instead spoke with our Egyptian doorman to see if he’d be willing to water and mow.  He said, “Yes!”  What a surprise.

Two weeks later, with no watering or mowing, we suddenly learned he was leaving.  Enter new Egyptian doorman.  We approached him and asked if he’d be willing to water and mow, he said, “You need to talk to Omar.”  Ah, insert mafia Don.  Our fourth attempt was to hire an alleged “professional” gardener who came, assessed our yard, said he’d come twice a week for six hours at a time.  I was highly skeptical of him being able to spend more than one hour tending to our small yard, let alone six, but we were hopeful.  After his first visit, during which he spent a mere two hours and ten minutes working, he never returned again.  Even to get paid.  We’re now reassessing the value of Omar’s seven-minute visits; at least the lawn got mowed.

So, while I continue to believe that as an expat I need to adjust to the local culture, I maintain that there are some local customs and behaviors that maybe should be left to the natives.  Now I’m off to go call about my missing comforter.  I figure 37 minutes should cover the question, “Is it ready to be delivered yet?”

In Life in Jordan Tags Amman traffic, Cairo traffic, driving in Amman, driving in Cairo, driving in Kuwait, Kuwait traffic
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Amman's Friday Market: Language Lessons, Shoe Polish and a New Whisk

May 13, 2014 Julia Inserro

For many of us, living in a new country gives us an opportunity to try to learn the local language. For those of us living in Amman, if this is your first attempt at learning Arabic, or even if you’ve been studying it for years, one thing remains true:  at some point you have to get out there and try speaking it. If you live in Abdoun, Sweifieh, or Deir Ghbar, or any other embassy-rich area of downtown, you might feel that everyone in Amman speaks English.  But next weekend, hop in the car, or grab a cab -- which can also be a great chance to practice your Arabic -- and head on down to the Friday Market (Souq al Juma’a) off King Hussein Street (Google GPS: 31°57'35"N 35°55'3"E).

Here you’ll get a great chance to not only use your Arabic, but pick up some new vocabulary, grab some great deals on fruit, veg and second-hand clothes, and maybe even make some new friends.

The market is open on Thursdays and Fridays and has an open-air, flea-market type atmosphere.  There are tons of clothes for sale, from brand new items, to “gently worn” items, to “well-loved” items.  You can grab some sneakers, or stock up on baby clothes, or even snag a great deal on your next ball gown.

If not in the mood for clothing deals, then check out the kitchen ware, tools, light bulbs, watches, belts, perfume, toys, or dishes.

And if you find yourself feeling peckish during your explorations, stop and grab some “corn in a cup” from the street vendors – it’s as simple as it sounds and just as delicious!

It’s best to come with an open mind, small bills, and no agenda.  On our first trip we just went to check it out, and came away with a new whisk, some shoe polish, tomatoes, cucumbers, apples and oranges; all stuff we didn’t know we needed until we saw it.  And honestly, we would have grabbed more produce had it not been for a wiggly toddler and our lack of available hands.  Next time we’re bringing bigger shopping bags, more small bills and multiple anti-wiggle devices.

In Life in Jordan Tags Amman Friday Market
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Top Ten Tips for (Surviving) Flying with an Infant

May 4, 2014 Julia Inserro

(Previously published on parentsociety.com, 25 March 2013 - http://www.parentsociety.com/parenting/family-travel-parenting/10-tips-for-surviving-flying-with-an-infant/)  

By the time our daughter was nine-months-old, she’d flown over 42,500 miles; half of which under her own frequent flyer number.  So having all this experience could lead you to believe that we are well-seasoned travelers who know exactly what we’re doing.  Yeah, you could think that.

But becoming “well-seasoned” takes lots of hands, and I fully utilized any and all tips and tricks I could glean from all my traveling mom-friends and family.  Combining all their suggestions with lessons I’ve since learned, I can offer the following tips for traveling with infants, if you must.

1.  There’s a reason they’re called “pacifiers”

You’ve probably heard this from everyone, but having a pacifier or bottle on hand for each take-off and landing is vital.  With the change in air pressure, your baby may experience some ear discomfort or even pain.  Allowing, or even strongly encouraging, her to suck on a pacifier or a bottle during these times, helps alleviate the pressure in her ears, as well as the pressure you’ll feel to keep her happy and content.

2.  Buy baby a seat, or at least request the bulkhead and the bassinet

When feasibly and financially possible, buy baby his own seat.  It’s far more relaxing for all of you if he can ride out the journey in the comfort of his car seat, rather than your arms (but check with the airline for their specific requirements, some car seats can’t be squeezed into a seat no matter how hard you beg and plead).  But if his own seat is not an option, request the bulkhead and a bassinet.  Some airlines are wonderful about this and when they guarantee you the bulkhead, they mean it.  And then within seconds of reaching altitude, the stewards are there setting up the bassinet for your little bundle to enjoy the trip in style.  (I give high praise to British Airways, in particular, for this.)  Unfortunately, this is not all airlines.  We requested, and were “guaranteed”, the bulkhead on five separate flights with the same U.S. airline and never got it, and unfortunately BA is not always an option.

3.  Strollers and car seats can wait at the gate

Most airlines will allow you, at no cost, to check the car seat and stroller with your luggage, or take them with you to the plane and gate-check them.  The latter makes traversing airports so much easier; and in an ideal world, they’ll be waiting for you when you disembark.  If your child is in an infant car seat, and has his own ticket, then take the car seat on the plane and latch it into the seat.  If you’re carrying the baby on your lap, then gate-check the car seat and stroller.  Do note that your gear can get pretty banged up, so you can buy a bag for them, or even use a large duffle.  It’s an extra few minutes to load everything, but can help prolong the life of your gear.

4.  Bring a grabby-bag full of need-to-grab items

I fashioned my grabby-bag out of a mesh wash bag and stuck a carabineer hook through it.  This way, I can pre-load it with a bottle, formula and water, a few small toys (side note: check out the candy aisle for light-up spinning toys, but empty the candy first and stash the noisy toys in the suitcase), pacifiers, and burp cloths.  Then, as soon as I get to my seat, I whip it out, and hook it on the seat pocket in front of me.  I also stash my diaper changing kit in the pocket, for easy access.  This way, all those things you’ll inevitably need just as you’re taking off, will be right there at your fingertips.

5.  Give your arms a break; grab the Bjorn

Using any type of baby carrier gives your arms a welcome break if you’re holding the baby on your lap, and can help soothe any fussiness (it can also be a big help during chaotic security lines).  And it’s vital for when you’re traveling alone, which frankly is not great fun but often necessary.

6.  Ask for help; people love traveling babies

As you’re settling in to your seat, scope out kind stewards or other parents near you, and if needed, ask them to watch your precious little carry-on while you stretch and use the lavatory.  If you see other single parents, offer to reciprocate.  Also, ask the stewards which bathroom has the changing table because oftentimes there’s only one; and if you’re trekking back there with your diaper changing gear and a wiggly baby, you want to make sure you’re waiting in line for the right one.

7.  Not all airlines are created equal

If you have the luxury of choosing your airline, choose one that allows extra time for families to board; recently some U.S. airlines have stopped this (I won’t name names, but a simple Google search will reveal the culprits), which is not only annoying for those of us who could use some extra time, it’s certainly annoying for those of you who now have to wait behind us.

8.  Let Mr. Huffington huff and puff

Don’t fret about the obnoxious traveler behind you, whether going through security or boarding or disembarking the plane.  Yes, you’re going to take some extra time getting all your bits together, putting each and every item (including the car seat and the stroller) on the x-ray belt or climbing under the seat to find the favorite binky before you deplane, but there’s nothing you can do about it so let him sigh and moan and hopefully move to another line.

During our security passes, we’ve had varied response to taking on bottles of water for formula.  Sometimes they ignore them, sometimes we’re asked to open them and they perform a chemical test, other times they dump them and give us back the empties so we can refill them on the other side.  As expats, I hear a lot of extreme cases, and I’ve had friends who were asked to drink their own breastmilk to prove it was safe, and others who watched in horror as security opened each and every bottle of premade formula to “check” it, rending it useless without a refrigerator.  Anything can happen, so be as prepared as possible.

9.  Packing the diaper bag; this ain’t a trip to the park

Bring more diapers, formula, bottles, and outfits than you think you could possibly use (including a little hat, airplanes get cold).  Due to delays, missed flights, and other out-of-your-control issues, you just have no idea what may happen.  If you have a little spitter-upper, include a change of clothes for yourself, as well.

10.  When possible, drive

All in all, traveling with babies is not at the top of most people’s “Favorite thing to do on a Saturday” list, but for many of us, living abroad, visiting distant relatives, or dealing with an adoption, it’s unavoidable.  So, best to be prepared and just load up your carry-on with extra humor, flexibility and patience.  Believe me, you’ll need it!

In Marriage and Motherhood Tags flying with an infant, travel tips, traveling with baby
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