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This is Where the Sidewalk Ends

November 12, 2012 Julia Inserro
Kwuait- sidewalk ends.png

(Written September 2012) When we first arrived in Kuwait, I was delighted to see long stretches of beautifully paved walkways along the Gulf. I could picture us on a jaunty stroll on a weekend morning, or taking a brisk walk with the stroller and my floppy sunhat. Then, when we had to move and were suddenly within half a block of the Gulf, I was thrilled! Moving into the apartment in July meant I had to wait until the temperatures dropped a bit before venturing out. But last weekend, seeing that temps had fallen into the 90s in the early evening, I convinced my husband to go do some reconnaissance with me and see just how walkable this area is. End result? You really have to want this in order to make it happen.

The primary problem (and there are several) is getting out of our apartment building, which is not handicapped accessible, meaning not stroller-accessible either. But I’ve had experience with this when we go shopping, and either I remove the baby and carry her while bumping the stroller down the stairs, or I get lucky and one of the guards comes to my rescue and helps me.

Once you make it outside, the gauntlet changes and now, in order to reach Gulf Road, you have broken or craggy or even missing sidewalks to navigate over and around, which often places you in the road which adds the difficulty of dodging traffic as well. There are multiple curbs to clamber over, but finally you find yourself at a stop light with a cross walk. And here you wait.

I’m not quite sure why there’s even a crosswalk, because, a) there’s no button to press indicating you’d like to actually cross, and b) they’ve timed the lights so cleverly that it’s impossible to cross the street in one motion. I did finally figure out, on my third outing, that if I take the long way around, meaning go through three crosswalks versus just one, I can do it without actually running for my life.

So after our evening recon outing (family time in Kuwait), we determined that crossing the street and turning right took us through the marina where we could see lots of pretty pretty yachts, but the “walking” part was less even with lots of curbs and it appeared to come to a dead end at one point. So this past week, following the baby’s morning nap, she and I prepped ourselves and headed out to explore going left.

After discussing my exploratory intentions with my husband, he suggested I go without the stroller and just use the carrier. He felt I could better dodge traffic this way, and he was right (note, this was before I figured out using the three-crosswalk-method). So I got the baby suited up with her sunhat, sunglasses, and pacifier on a leash. I donned my own wide-brimmed sunhat (far less cute than her’s, I might add) and sunglasses, strapped on my pedometer, and stuck a small bottle of water in my pocket.

We walked for an hour, covering 2.5 miles, and discovered several things. First that going left is far preferable in terms of walk-ability. However, just because you manage to cross the street, doesn’t mean the gauntlet ends. You still have a handful of curbs to bump up and down, plus you’re right next to the Gulf Road, which is basically equivalent to a 6-8 lane highway, so the noise and speed are disconcerting. But once you get passed that, there’s a sidewalk that leads away from the cars to the beach and the water, and from there you can walk far more peacefully.

During our first outing, I had slightly underestimated what an hour walk in 108 degrees while carrying the equivalent of three bags of sugar strapped to my chest would feel like. Halfway through, we stopped in the shade of a pergola out on a jetty and shared my bottle of water before heading back. I vowed our next outing would involve the stroller and lots more water.

Two days later, we tried it again. This time we walked for almost 90 minutes and clocked over 3.5 miles. We also consumed 32 ounces of water between the two of us. I have to say that I’ve heard of some parents who have trouble getting their child to switch from the bottle to the sippy cup. I’ve found that bringing on the beginning stages of mild dehydration sharpens their concentration immensely and they catch on quickly. My daughter’s quite delighted with her Pooh cup now. (No, not my best mommy moment, but I’m trying to see the sippy cup half full here.)

I did wake up in the middle of the night with radiating pain up and down my arms. Realizing it wasn’t just from the sun I got (I was far more concerned with keeping the baby protected, and as a result I neglected to protect myself and have the pink arms to prove it), but apparently the “stress” of steering a stroller over, around and through a gauntlet for 90 minutes results in some protesting muscles. We’ll work on building those up for next time.

So bottom line, there are snippets of Kuwait that are walkable, you just really have to want to find them. We’ll continue our walks, especially once the temps leave triple digits. My goal is to walk to the Kuwait Towers one day, which we can see in the far distance. I’m not sure we can walk that far, but we can at least go until the sidewalk ends.

In Life in Kuwait Tags Living in Kuwait
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Life in a Suburb of Hades

November 12, 2012 Julia Inserro
Kuwait - hades.png

(Written July 2012) My daughter and I have been home now in Kuwait for a month, after our almost-four-month absence, and we've been slowly readjusting (or adjusting) to life here. There were a few things I'd forgotten about life in Kuwait; namely traffic and heat. Both of which can kill you.

The traffic isn't any worse than it was, but literally within seconds of being back on the road here, I was reminded of the basic driving rules: politeness can kill, it's not possible to be too close to the next car and expect to be overtaken on any and all on and off-ramps. I made the mistake of trying to give-way to someone merging and they just stared at me as if I was a driving chicken. Bottom line: if you haven't been exposed to politeness, then it's truly a foreign concept, so quit holding up the important people and move along, please.

My first foray to the Mall (to join the handful of other mall walkers, mostly women in black flowing abayas with white sneakers peeking out with each determined step and earbuds tucked under their head scarves), I found myself cussing like a rabid sailor within minutes of entering the traffic flow. So my personal goal now is to learn how to drive here without the expletives; personally, I'm not convinced it can be done.

The temperatures were another hurdle, though I have yet to cuss about them. When we left the U.S. a month ago, we left behind hot and sticky, and walked right in to a whole new level of hot. In the last month, the daily high temps have never gone below 100, with multiple days reaching 120. It's almost amusing to check the weekly temps. For this coming week, the lowest "low" temp is 97, with three days having a low over 100. Meaning in the dead of night, it's still 101 degrees outside. The highs range from 113 to 130. Now, I recognize that even with these numbers, we cannot claim the hottest place on earth, which is apparently the Lut Desert in Iran, with recorded temps of 159. But I can definitely say we're close enough and I'd even go so far as to say that this confirms our zip code is at least a suburb of Hades. Living in heat like this presents some additional issues beyond the basics of trying to avoid sunburn, dehydration, and heat prostration daily. Not surprisingly, air conditioning is stretched to the max. And when you already have iffy A/C like ours (which is the cause for our up-coming move from our villa to an apartment... yes, the turmoil and upheaval just keep on coming), it makes for super duper iffy A/C.

Opening the car gate or even the front door on our villa presented additional challenges, unless you wanted to leave a layer of DNA behind. It required quick fingertips to unlock or unbolt, then use of one's knees, elbows or toes to further open so as to avoid direct contact. I've considered walking around with oven mitts, but can't quite squeeze them into the diaper bag.

Another issue is taking a shower. Unless you manage to grab one as the sun rises around 4:15am, you are faced with taking a very quick scalding shower, and that's with the cold tap blasting. If you're feeling super efficient, you can probably boil pasta for dinner while you lather, rinse, repeat. And the hot water isn't just in the shower. The toilet water is hot and filling the cats' water bowl up has required some ingenuity with the use of ice cubes. Lions in the Sahara may not mind a warm drink in a sun-baked pool, but our prissy housecats look very put out when their water is more than tepid.

Our household's use of chap stick and hand lotion has also increased exponentially. Even my husband requested some "non girly" hand lotion the other night due to the dryness. The baby's lips actually chapped in her first week home, so we now blast our penguin humidifier at night, and liberally apply Vaseline to her lips throughout the day.

During one of my infrequent driving outings, I noticed that the plastic covering on the interior of the driver's door was almost melting off the frame. And the thermometer we have on the dashboard couldn't keep up and just stopped working entirely. One of my stupider moments was when I was trying to get just a little more out of our car's A/C, and I switched the vents from recirculate to external and was instantly covered in hot sand and dust and could see it blowing through the vents into the car. I immediately switched back and then raced home to a nice boiling shower.

Not everything is negative. One benefit is that laundry, such as throw rugs and cloth diapers, dry lickety-quick outside, as does my hair. And when I hosed off the fifteen layers of dust from our car the other day, and it dried so quickly there wasn't time for water spots. So minute silver linings can be spotted, if you squint (which you have to anyways, otherwise you get sun blindness).

In Life in Kuwait Tags Living in Kuwait
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