Election Day

This is it folks. I hope everyone gets out and votes today (unless you’re voting for ____, then feel free not to bother – don’t want to offend anyone, so I’ll just leave the name blank). Ron and I did the dutiful expat thing and mailed in our absentee ballots a few weeks ago. We both did have to do some research on the non-presidential items that were up for consideration in Maryland. One of the questions was worded poorly, so after voting then discussing it with Ron, I realized that I voted opposite of what I’d intended. Oh well, they really should write these legal questions for a much lower denominator (namely me). I think I at least managed to vote for my presidential choice.

Thanks to Allison and Don (Ron’s sister and brother-in-law) allowing us to share their Direct TV through some miracle of computery things (Slingbox on their end, a Mac Mini on ours), we have been able to catch a lot of the debates and coverage. It’s covered here on our local satellite TV, but the added benefit of the Slingbox is that we can record and watch it whenever. So along with the debates and the complete coverage on “Saturday Night Live” we feel fairly well-informed.

So, aside from counting down this election with the rest of the world, Ron and I are doing well. Ron’s getting ready for the wrap up of his database course in a month, including lab work and a research paper, plus the final. I’m still doing my writings and walk-abouts. Did some wandering with a friend yesterday and managed to get more lost than I ever have before. But the end result was we made it out fine with no incidents (despite being lost in a neighborhood with narrow streets, an over-abundance of men, an adorable stray brown sheep and three maps, all of which left this neighborhood area blank). We had a great lunch in the Naguib Mahfouz Café in the Khan and we showed each other some shops that we’d found separately. I bought a few trinkets here and there until I reached my limit of being vocally barraged and practically ran out to the main street to catch a cab home.


(Typical Khan shop -- patience is key.)

Car Games – Cairo Version

As anyone who’s been subjected to this blog will know, driving in Cairo is as close as you’ll get to a live-action video game. And in keeping with the “fun” aspect of it, we have come up with some games. For those of you who know Ron well, or have spent any time with him, you’ll know that he loves games, particularly ones he can win. And since he’s the creator of most of them, the rules tend to be rather fluid and oddly enough often fluctuate in his favor (he will deny this vehemently, but I’m still right).

So we have been discussing the possibility of creating a new version of Car Bingo – Cairo style. When I was kid, I had these bingo boards with little sliding windows. At the beginning of a car trip I’d open all the windows on the board, then when I saw a “red car” or a “flag pole,” or whatever was listed, I’d close the specific window until I got a row or a column complete. Now, as an only child, the concept of actually “winning” wasn’t really of issue, since I was playing merely against myself. However, I do feel that despite my depressing lack of aggressive competitiveness, I did gain a keen sense of observation. Who knew it would come in handy 30 years later while driving around Cairo?

The main obstacle to our idea is the size of the board, essentially because there are just too many variables. You’d think that putting a drawing of a one-legged man on crutches trying to cross an 8-10 lane highway would be ridiculous as you’d never see one – wrong, saw him last weekend. Or maybe an old woman crouching in the middle of traffic selling packs of tissues would seem unlikely – wrong again, they’re all over! How about eight cows crowded head to tail into a pick-up truck – sadly, we see them all too often. Or double-decker bread bicycles, or trucks overflowing with used cardboard (pic), or trucks carrying loose watermelons with two kids propped on top, propane carts, men lifting their gallibayas to urinate on the wall, someone getting an unconventional lift on a shuttle bus (pic - I have no idea why he did this, or whether he had to pay the full fare)? See what we mean? The board would have to be impossibly large. We might have to go digital with this – something small, hand-held, but with a lot of memory! Plans are in motion.

The one game that can be played sans board or electronics is our aptly named, “Why Would They…?” game. This we play automatically every time we’re in a vehicle. The rules are simple and the purpose is to foster greater understanding, acceptance and political-correctness. It’s also a game of repression skills. Whoever is able to make it through the entire ride without exclaiming, “Why would they/he/she…?” wins a round. Believe me, it’s not easy. The other day I lost with a simple noted observation of a metal barricade placed in the middle of a lane on a 10-lane road, adding to the already-chaotic traffic. I mean, it’s a perfectly justifiable observation (damnit)!

The end result of someone being caught with a “Why Would They…” is they have to give Chuckles a zerbert (a.k.a., raspberry). This may not sound like much to some, but Chuckles is a big cat, with consistently sharp claws, a vise-like grip, and who loves to bite – so there’s definitely risk of injury (though we have found that he tends to merely look bemused when receiving a zerbert, so we may have to up the ante).

We were in the car with a friend the other day who knows of the “Why Would They…?” game and its rules. Throughout the drive Ben would make comments such as “I find it interesting that they would…”, or “I love when you see someone…”, and other such phrases until Ron called him on his attempted verbal deception and gave him two zerbert points. There’s no way not to play. Welcome to cultural exposure.

Fears & Anxieties (with statistics!)

It was not my intention to upset or concern anyone about safety in Cairo when I posted my reactions and findings from the book, “Taxi.” [Within hours of posting I received a flabbergasted call from a dear girlfriend who said, “Why the hell did Ron bring his feminist, animal rights, American wife to that horrible place?” (I’m paraphrasing a bit.)] I understand and appreciate her concerns, and in reverse I’d probably feel the same way. I told her that I hadn’t even shared the latest bit of horror – which started with us leaving for the commissary last weekend and seeing a beautiful camel tethered behind a new building across the street. I’ve never seen a camel in Zamalek so I was initially delighted (he looked gorgeous and furry, calmly sitting and chewing away). Ron remained quiet, which at the time I didn’t read into. A few hours later when we returned I automatically looked for the camel as we drove by and was faced with him being skinned (dead). Ron said he was afraid of that, knowing that it’s a tradition here to slaughter an animal to commemorate a new building. Just heartbreaking.

Anyway, in terms of violence and crime (against humans) in Cairo, I did a little research and found the following – though keep in mind, Cairo stats are not plentiful online (and there is the added issue of how much faith to put in any online data), but I found a few scattered references:

> Egypt doesn’t even rank in the top 83 countries for highest murder rate (USA is 5th and India is 1st);
> highest murders with firearms, USA is 4th, South Africa is 1st and Egypt isn’t in the top 48;
> highest rapes, USA is #1, sadly almost double South Africa’s second place and Egypt isn’t in the top 84;
> for assaults, USA is #1, over three times as many as UK’s second position, and Egypt isn’t in the top 78.

Now, I do realize that statistics are only as good as those who report them (plus there’s the added issue of a lot of crimes, such as assault, not getting reported to the police here due to lack of trust), but there’s no question it’s far less violent than the US… so we’ll just leave it at that.

Here are some other findings:

From an August 2005 article:
Washington, D.C., Is 100 To 1000 Times As Dangerous As Cairo, Egypt.
[Quote from the University of Texas:] “'The fact is that the actual incidence of violence in Egypt is very rare: Cairo is a much safer city than any of the major cities in Europe or the United States. The annual murder rate in the city of Washington, DC, a city of just over 600,000 people, tends to be about as high as the murder rate in the entire country of Egypt -- a country of just over 60,000,000 people -- over a ten year period. That means that the murder rate is over one thousand times less in Egypt than it is in Washington, DC, and yet there is still a perception that Egypt is dangerous.' This observation tends to agree with statistics from other sources. Official US figures for murders in Washington over the past fifteen years have fluctuated from about 40 to 80 per 100,000 per year, while UN figures for Egypt show a rate of around 0.5 per 100,000. This implies that murder is 80 to 160 times as prevalent on a per-capita basis in Washington as in Egypt as a whole. I could not find a specific murder rate for Cairo, but UT’s comment suggests that it is comparable to or even lower than the national murder rate. But, although whether Egypt is 100 times or 1000 times as safe as Washington may be debatable, it’s certain that you can feel much more confident walking around the streets in Egypt during the day or at night. It can only be supposed that rates for other crimes follow the same pattern. One might also consider offenses on the street that are less than criminal, like insults, taunts and lewd remarks, which are much more common in the US than in Egypt.”

Another source:
“There is not a large prevalence of violent crimes in Cairo, but tourists should be aware of petty crimes, such as purse-snatchings, which are more common. In addition, it is recommended that tourists who are women should not travel anywhere alone as they may become victims of verbal abuse or sexual harassment.”
(That last line doesn’t apply to me as I’m a “resident” not a “tourist”.) ☺

And while searching I found this, which I found amusing:
“There is nothing that works right,” said Ahmed Fouad Negm, Egypt’s most popular contemporary poet. “Everything is corrupt and loose. And because the regime does not engage in political dialogue, it resorts to police repression. How can a state run on police?”

Of course, now this doesn’t mean I relax my Spidey-Sense and go larking about with vapid innocence, but I hope this can assuage any concerns of us living in a dangerous city. However, in the reverse, I’m now terrified for everyone living back home! Stay inside, barricade the doors, only answer for Ed McMahon!

First Anniversary

Well, we did it! We have officially been married for 365 days – whew! It’s not that I didn’t think we’d make it; it’s just been a rather insane year. Is this what a first year of marriage should be like? I guess every new marriage has its own personal “let’s move to Egypt” issues, just in varying formats.

The night before our anniversary as we were drifting off to sleep, Ron said quietly, “I hope it’s okay, but I didn’t get you a card.” “It’s fine, I didn’t get you anything,” I replied. It’s not that we’re unsentimental cads, there are two factors at work here: 1) Cairo is a card-free zone, they’re difficult to find, and if you do find one it’s often a little strange, 2) we knew this wasn’t going to be our proper celebration. Saying that, we did manage to celebrate our actual anniversary with a nice dinner.

Ron did take the day off from work, but it was for his midterm… not me. ☺ We discussed this a few weeks ago when Ron realized his midterm was due two days after our anniversary, so we agreed to postpone any real celebration until after school, but luckily Ron was able to pack the weekend and most of yesterday with midterm-fun, so we were actually able to go to dinner.

Ron chose the Mena House Oberoi, out by the pyramids. It was built as a royal hunting lodge in the mid 1800s, but was converted to a hotel in 1869 (and has the distinct honor of being the only hotel by the pyramids that has a golf course – so our future outings include getting a photo of Ron “teeing off” in front of Cheops (the Great Pyramid)).

The Mena House has several restaurants to choose from, but the Moghul Room, with its Indian fare, came highly recommended so we opted for that (despite it being the only restaurant that does not have a pyramid view – however, in hindsight this wasn’t really an issue as the pyramids are not lit at night so we had to squint to see them at all).

The other “treat” we gave ourselves (more of a necessity than a treat, but still a treat), was to arrange a driver for the night. We certainly could have found it ourselves (though we don’t have the best history of locating the pyramids, even in daylight), but after sitting in the hoards of traffic, I’m very glad we didn’t drive. Getting there took over an hour (getting home, only 30 minutes). I’m sure traffic is like that every evening, but I haven’t had to sit through it before. At one point, we accidentally tapped the car in front of us, but no one blinks an eye here at that so we just kept going. We did see lots of physics-bending vehicles (see previous post if confused), and at one point I saw a rather ingenious woman who had created her own hands-free mobile device – by wedging her cell phone under her headscarf (well, I thought it was clever).

The hotel is beautiful (probably one of the nicest I’ve seen here), with wonderful arabesque decorations, antiques, gorgeous lighting and luxurious fabrics. Dinner was excellent and we were serenaded with live music (not just us, the whole restaurant – we noticed there was an “Entertainment fee” of 1.21LE per person on our bill, but we were more than happy to add our whopping $0.48 to their salaries and gave a little more in the tip).

We had plans to grab a coffee or tea in one of the other restaurants to relax after dinner and gaze at the pyramids, but in addition to not actually seeing them, we were happily stuffed full of lentils, chickpeas and naan, so we just called for the driver and he took us home.

Maybe not the most romantic of first anniversary celebrations, but there were extenuating circumstances and we are in the midst of planning a true vacation, maybe mid-December to Madagascar (isn’t a first anniversary “lemur”?), where we’ll celebrate it properly.

Regardless of how we commemorated it, we did express great wonder and joy at this past year, and I don’t think either of us would have changed a thing (well, any big thing, that is).

At the close of our first wedding anniversary, as we were reading in bed last night, Ron said lovingly, “You definitely look better than her.” I glanced over to see he was reading the October “National Geographic” article on Neanderthals. Needless to say, he spent the next ten, twenty minutes back-pedaling wildly and claiming it was all a joke. So if anyone asks, this was the moment the honeymoon ended. Let the marriage begin!

Feline Antics

Despite us having hundreds of DVDs, three cable boxes, and thousands of channels to skip through, Ron and I do find that a bit of cat play can make for quite an entertaining evening.

Chuckles and Ricky both love strings, but they tend to play differently (as anyone with multiple felines knows). Ricky likes to dash back and forth, never really wanting to actually catch the string. Chuckles, on the other hand, goes for broke and he and Ron often get in a tug match, with Ron usually cheating and distracting Chuckles or squashing him behind the ottoman, in order to get him to release his vice-like bite.

Ron can also get Chuckles to do amazing leaps into the air or onto the couch (or off). We do find that he is often so intently focused on getting and keeping the string that he falls off furniture without a clue (Chuckles, I mean – for the most part). We also found that if we place the ottoman that has wheels on the wood floor, then get Chuckles to leap onto it, he’ll happily go flying across the room, not unlike Snoopy as the Red Baron. Fun for the whole family.

In addition to strings and balls, they love treats. Though Ron actually had to convince Chuckles of their goodness, who, prior to this, had no interest in them. Now he’s quite the obnoxious pest any time we walk into the kitchen or go near the treat drawer. He still doesn’t fully get the whole concept of taking a treat from our hand though. Ricky gets it immediately, and sometimes even tries to butt in to take Chuckles’. Chuckles tends to wuffle it a bit, rub his front teeth on it, then much like “Insert tab A into slot B,” we slide the treat into his mouth like a reverse Pez dispenser. Yum!

Robin back home kindly sent us some great gourmet treats for the felines to try. One of them was less like the fish-shaped crunchy treats they’re used to and more like bits of torn chicken (ewww). It took some added wuffles for Chuckles to get this concept, but Ron was eventually able to slide the treats in without issue. What a clever boy.